Tuesday, June 9, 2009

A Day in Tuscany

We rose early, today, in order to get ready for a long day driving and walking through southern Tuscany. From San Felice we traveled south along route 451 through beautiful Italian country-side heading for the city of Montalcino. It is easy to understand why people around the world are so enthralled with Tuscany. The rolling hills, sharp mountain sides, green valleys are everywhere – all filled with rows of grapes, olives, wheat and flowers. I do believe that Steve's best time is driving as fast as possible through the winding, hilly roads...and doing a great job of it, I might add. The little villages along the route were right out of the Medieval Ages and the Renaissance.

Montalcino is a little village looking over vineyards and beautiful valleys. It’s in a wonderful area, surrounded by the red wines of Montalcino. Originally, it was one of Siena’s biggest allies after Siena beat Florence in a large battle in 1260. The center of town features a large fort – but it’s now primarily a wine tasting center. There are beautiful shops along the roads leading to and from the center. We parked on the outside of the city and walked up and down all the little streets for the fort and the City Hall Tower. Jackie shopped, loved all the little shops, saw a leather purse that she loved but chose to wait, which she regretted as we continued the day.

After several hours we drove east along small Tuscan roads – little wide enough for a small Alfa Romeo, let alone a large truck.

Forty kilometers to the east of Montalcino was the little town of Pienza. In the 1400s this was the village of Pope Pius II and the city has kept his house in wonderful condition, ever since. The city also features some of the finest Renaissance architecture still preserved in all of Tuscany.
After a short lunch of Paninis (and, of course, Gelato!), we continued east to the remote city of Montepulciano. This city spent 200 years alternatively under the control of either Siena or Florence. After parking at a city lot, we waited a short time for a tourist bus – and decided, unfortunately, to walk to the Duomo at the top of the fortress. Montepuliciano is a beautiful city – and the center, now, of wine tasting shops. It is the home of Vino Nobile – a strong red that has attracted the attention of a number of Popes over the past 200 years. Because of carrying Rick Steve’s great tour book on Italy, we found the Vino Nobile wine cellar and enjoyed a taste.

On the way back to San Felice, we missed our exit of the A1 superhighway and found ourselves 40 km north of where we wanted to be. It seems like the Italians don’t like exits on their toll roads. By the time we were able to get off and turn around, we were halfway back to Florence. Oh Well….

We saw a lot more of the Tuscan countryside and more wonderful villages – and a long stretch of a superhighway with mile after mile of heavy duty diesel trucks pulling long loads between the industrial north and the south. Every once in awhile there was a bright red Ferrari weaving in and out of traffic – but we kept our pace and refused the urge to RACE!

But, we made it back to Borgo San Felice - and dinner. It seems that we're always getting to know the restaurant people: managers, wait staff, and chefs. Our waiter for the last 2 nights has been Marchello. He's been a professional waiter in Italy, London and Paris for many years - and speaks 4 languages. Some times we are amazed to find waiters that can speak ONE language. Marchello has become another friend to keep in touch with.
Tomorrow, more of the Tuscan countryside….. Ciao!

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